Varied Skies

Zion National Park shines like a bright beacon to many, calling them to experience the grandeur of southern Utah. For us, that beacon marked an exit from the state we have enjoyed touring for several weeks. We settled in at Zion River Resort along the banks of the Virgin River.

Slot canyons and towering cliffs define Zion and its two most famous hiking trails, Angel’s Landing and the Narrows. Angel’s Landing tempts the brave to traverse a thin, rock spine with 1000 foot drops on each side as they ascend to a spot where “only Angel’s could land.” Sounds like a great family adventure! But my pre-hike due diligence revealed that the advertised risk of a fatal fall was very real. While we could use more space in the RV, one of us plummeting to our death would put a serious damper on the festivities. So we focused on hiking the Narrows.

The Narrows is the narrowest section of Zion Canyon. Canyon walls, sometimes only 20-30 feet apart, tower over the Virgin River running through the canyon. The Narrows offers its own set of risks. Even short periods of rain may cause deadly flash flooding from which there is no escape. Just a few weeks before our arrival, seven folks from California died in a Zion slot canyon not far from the Narrows. A forecasted 30% chance of rain materialized into a brief downpour that rapidly flooded the canyon, sweeping them to their death.

Reliably unpredictable weather and a near constant threat of rain hampered our exploration of Zion. Mud-choked roads and debris filled trees along the Virgin River served as an ever-present reminder that we should not minimize the threat of flash floods. For our first few days in the park, Rangers posted the likelihood of flash flooding as “probable.” Unwilling to take our chances on a “probable” chance of death, we explored the Visitor Center and Human History Museum and the kids completed the Junior Ranger Program.

On another day with a “probable” chance of flooding, we decided to do a loop hike to the Emerald Pools.

It rained.

Apparently, I did not find the pools particularly interesting as I have no pictures to show.

Finally, the threat of rain dropped to 15% on our last day, the Rangers posted that we had only a “possible” chance of death from flash-flooding, and we ventured into the Narrows. A one mile trail along the Virgin River led to the Narrows entrance.

Those more mortal than we watched from shore in astonishment as we navigated the river and embarked on our adventure without the $43 a piece in rental canyoneering shoes, pants, and hiking poles sported by others that had gone before us.

The canyon walls glistened with drainage from the plateau above.The NPS deems this a strenuous hike. But it is a different sort of strenuous compared to the steep ascents to which we have become accustomed. No formal trail exists. Much of the hike is through the river itself with every step a mystery. The river flow often fluctuates. Some sections are relatively placid. Rapid flow in other sections tests your balance. Progress can be slow. Periodic sand bars and banks provide a welcome respite. 

Hanging garden

Sprinkles and a fear of rain farther up the canyon stopped us in our tracks. The river seemed to be flowing a bit faster and a small amount of leaves and other debris could be seen floating on top. While we did not make it to the famous “Wall Street,” the narrowest part of the canyon, we had experienced the wonder of the slot canyon. Venturing further did not seem prudent and we turned around.

After trudging over and through unseen rocks, our muscles and feet ached. We welcomed the site of the riverside trail – only a mile left to make it to the shuttle that would whisk us to the Visitor Center.On the way home, cloudy skies gave way to brilliant colors as the sun dipped in the west.